 |
|
| . |
 |
| Polaroid Work |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| The first time I heard about Polaroid Transfers was at a demo held at Carole's Studio in 2000 or so, in Montreal. I was determined to find equipment to try... either a slide printer or camera. Found a second hand slide printer downtown, and was on my way, 2002. The Hollyhocks were the first attempt. I have since bought an old 100 'Land' camera, ca. 1960. Have had fun with it, after ordering the battery from Polaroid. Double exposures are neat, you do have to remember where your lights & darks are. I usually place the transfers onto watercolour paper, but have also had fun with handmade and tissue paper. Emulsion transfers are just as fun, I'm hoping to get going on those more in the future, experimenting with surfaces. Have tried copper. |
| How it works - expose the film, with camera or slide projector. (Polaroid 669 or 690 are the films I use) Pull film out and wait only about 15 seconds before pulling negative & print apart. Print will be underdeveloped. Place the negative onto watercolour paper, dampened if you wish but excess water must be squeegeed off first. Place paper with neg ontop of hot water bath, a tupperware container works well. Do not use for food after using here. Let sit, warm, for a minute or two, then peel negative sheet off paper. The negative image has transferred onto the paper. Easy to have troubles though, but if you buy a good handbook such as Kathleen Carr's, it's very helpful. |
| It is suggested to rinse in a vinegar/water bath afterwards. Otherwise you end up with a chemical smudge as in the transfer on the left. The one on the right was rinsed, but hung on a rack with a clothespeg. The dyes ran, so now I dry them flat... |
| Polaroid Transfers |
| Emulsion Transfers |
| Emulsion transfers are done with 669 film only (small format). There are likely larger format films. The films I use fit into the Land camera 100, made in the early 60's as well as the Vivitar printer. (The image is about 3x4") Emulsion transfers start with the actual print, either one partially developed as above or one fully developed 60 - 90 seconds. Place an adheisive backing behind the print; shelf paper works well, book covering material like Geo might do as well. This is so you don't end up with a huge mess, you will be removing the paper from the emulsion sitting on the surface of the print. Hot water is best, but the longer it is left, the more stretched the emulsion shall become. |
| So, here's the first one. Printed from slide using a Vivitar projector. |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| These are from summer '06, at the lake. The ones with image i.d. numbers are available digitally on the Dreamstime site. My profile name is 'polaroid', you can find the images by searching photographers by profile name or with the number in the general search .area. |
| 1069425 |
| 1069558 |
| 1069500 |
| 1069389 |
| 1069523 |
| 1069488 |
| Lake & Kayak - this one's a double exposure |
| In the Bay |
| Seat with ferns |
| Lake & Kayak |
| After the Rain |
| Pickerel Weed |
| Monarch study |